DENIM DIVINE | 2024 FIT AAS EXHIBITON
made in nîmes
RACHAEL ZAMMER
The history of denim can be traced back to the 17th century when sturdy cotton fabric known as "serge de Nîmes" was produced in the French town of Nîmes. The fabric gained popularity due to its durability and versatility. In the 19th century, Levi Strauss, a German-American immigrant, partnered with Jacob Davis, a tailor, to create the first pair of denim jeans in 1873. The duo added copper rivets to reinforce stress points, resulting in a robust and long-lasting garment. Initially designed for miners and laborers during the California Gold Rush, denim jeans gradually evolved into a symbol of ruggedness and rebellion.
the history
of denim
Over the decades, denim became synonymous with various subcultures, from the countercultural movements of the 1960s to the punk and grunge scenes of the late 20th century. Today, denim is a ubiquitous fabric found in a wide range of clothing styles and continues to be a fashion staple with a rich history deeply ingrained in global culture.
denim through the years
1920s to 1930s
Denim fabric, with its sturdy yet comfortable texture, has roots tracing back to Nîmes, France, in the 17th century. It was initially crafted from a blend of silk and wool, renowned for its durability and versatility. However, it wasn't until the 18th century that denim emerged, as we recognize it today. Weavers in Nîmes began producing a similar fabric using indigo-dyed cotton, creating the iconic blue denim that would later become synonymous with workwear and casual fashion worldwide.
1700s
The inception of Levi Strauss & Co. marks a pivotal moment in the history of fashion and entrepreneurship. Founded in 1853 by Bavarian immigrant Levi Strauss and his partner Jacob Davis, the company revolutionized the apparel industry with the creation of blue jeans. Originally intended as durable work pants for miners during the California Gold Rush, Levi Strauss & Co. introduced riveted denim trousers, patented by Davis, which proved to be incredibly resilient and practical.
1870s
The 1920s and 1930s marked a significant turning point for denim as it transitioned from utilitarian workwear to a symbol of rebellious youth culture, particularly in Hollywood. During this period, denim began to appear on the silver screen, worn by actors portraying rugged cowboys, daring outlaws, and adventurous pioneers. Hollywood films such as "The Wild One" and "Stagecoach" showcased denim-clad protagonists, catapulting the fabric into the realm of mainstream fashion.The association of denim with freedom, individualism, and a hint of rebellion captivated audiences worldwide, solidifying its status as an enduring fashion staple.
In the 1950s, denim emerged as a symbol of youthful rebellion and cultural defiance, breaking free from its utilitarian origins to become a fashion statement. Popularized by Hollywood icons like Marilyn Monroe, James Dean and Marlon Brando, denim jeans and jackets became emblematic of the era's rebellious spirit.
1950s
Bell-bottom jeans, synonymous with the fashion revolution of the 1960s, epitomized the era's spirit of experimentation and individualism. Characterized by their dramatically flared legs, which widened from the knees down, bell-bottoms represented a departure from the slim and straight styles of previous decades. Originating from the naval uniforms of the 19th century, bell bottoms experienced a resurgence in the 1960s, fueled by the growing influence of countercultural movements like the hippie and bohemian lifestyles. Popularized by iconic figures such as Janis Joplin and Jimi Hendrix, bell bottoms became a symbol of rebellion and nonconformity, challenging traditional fashion norms. Their free-flowing silhouette and psychedelic patterns captured the essence of the era's youthful exuberance, making them a staple of 1960s fashion.
1960s
The 1970s witnessed denim reaching new heights of popularity and versatility, with the emergence of iconic styles like Daisy Dukes. Denim became synonymous with the free-spirited attitude of the decade, reflecting a blend of nostalgia for the carefree 1960s and a newfound sense of individuality. Daisy Dukes, named after the character Daisy Duke from the television show "The Dukes of Hazzard," featured ultra-short denim shorts, often frayed at the hemline. Alongside this trend, denim continued to be embraced in various forms, from flared jeans to patchwork denim jackets, reflecting the eclectic and eclectic fashion landscape of the 1970s.
1970s
The 1980s witnessed a significant evolution in denim fashion, marked by the rise of designer denim and groundbreaking advertising campaigns such as Brooke Shields' iconic collaboration with Calvin Klein. Designer denim emerged as a symbol of luxury and status, with brands like Calvin Klein, Guess, and Jordache leading the way with their high-end denim creations. Brooke Shields' provocative Calvin Klein campaign, featuring her declaring, "You want to know what comes between me and my Calvins? Nothing," sparked controversy and captivated audiences worldwide. This campaign not only propelled Shields to stardom but also elevated denim to new heights of sophistication and allure. With its combination of sex appeal and minimalist chic, Shields' collaboration with Calvin Klein became emblematic of 1980s fashion and remains an enduring symbol of denim's power to captivate and inspire.
1980s
In the 1990s, denim underwent a cultural revolution, particularly within the realm of hip hop fashion. As hip hop rose to prominence as a dominant force in music and pop culture, denim became an essential component of the genre's iconic style. Baggy jeans, often worn low on the hips, became synonymous with the laid-back, urban aesthetic of hip hop artists and enthusiasts. Brands like Tommy Hilfiger, FUBU, and Cross Colours capitalized on this trend, producing denim garments with oversized logos and bold embellishments. Hip hop stars such as Tupac Shakur and The Notorious B.I.G. popularized the denim-on-denim look, pairing jeans with oversized denim jackets or vests. This era saw denim transcend its traditional boundaries, evolving into a symbol of urban cool and self-expression within the vibrant tapestry of hip hop culture.
1990s
In the 2000s, denim continued to be a dominant force in fashion, undergoing various iterations to reflect the era's eclectic trends. Low-rise jeans became ubiquitous, epitomizing the era's obsession with revealing and body-conscious styles. Denim skirts, jackets, and vests remained popular wardrobe staples, often adorned with distressed finishes and embellishments like rhinestones and embroidery. Additionally, the rise of celebrity culture fueled denim trends, with stars like Britney Spears and Justin Timberlake donning iconic denim looks that influenced mainstream fashion. The 2000s marked a period of experimentation and diversity in denim styles, reflecting the dynamic nature of contemporary fashion.
2000s
In 2024, denim maintains its status as a cornerstone of fashion, adapting to the ever-changing landscape with new innovations and trends. Sustainability remains a key focus, driving the popularity of recycled denim and eco-friendly production processes. Vintage-inspired cuts such as flared jeans and wide-leg styles continue to thrive, catering to a nostalgia for past eras while embracing modern comfort. High-tech fabrics and performance denim are on the rise, offering stretch and durability for active lifestyles. Customization and personalization are prevalent, with DIY techniques like patchwork, embroidery, and distressing allowing individuals to create unique denim pieces. Gender fluidity and inclusivity are prominent themes, with unisex designs and size-inclusive collections becoming increasingly common. Collaborations between fashion brands and influencers continue to shape denim trends, merging streetwear aesthetics with high fashion sensibilities. Overall, denim in 2024 embodies a balance of heritage and innovation, reflecting a dynamic and diverse fashion landscape.
From its humble beginnings as durable workwear for laborers and miners, denim has evolved into an indispensable component of modern fashion. Its versatility, durability, and timeless appeal have made it a staple in wardrobes around the world. From classic blue jeans to high-fashion denim creations, this fabric continues to reinvent itself, reflecting the ever-changing tastes and trends of contemporary style. Denim's journey from its origins in Nîmes to its current status as a global fashion icon is a testament to its enduring allure and cultural significance.
Present
design process
cyanotype
concept
Cyanotype, a photographic printing process dating back to the 19th century, involves coating a surface with a two-part photosensitive solution and then exposing it to UV light to produce a cyan-blue print. This technique is renowned for distinctive blue hues and has found a contemporary resurgence in artistic and creative applications.
Inspired by the rich history of denim and its deep-rooted connection to the French city of Nîmes, I decided to employ cyanotype on denim fabric to craft a historic map of Nîmes, France. This decision was not only a homage to the birthplace of denim, but also a deliberate choice is driven by the indigo shades inherent to cyanotype chemistry, seamlessly mirroring the iconic blue hues of denim. By merging historical reverence with artistic expression, the cyanotype map on denim becomes visual embodiment of cultural heritage, intertwining the legacies of craftsmanship and innovation.
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upcycling
the life of denim
As upcycling and sustainability is an important responsibility of a designer, I repurposed over 2000 salvaged rivets from a myriad of old jeans, each bearing the unique imprint of different brands. Through this assembly, I have woven together not just denim but the narratives of countless lives these garments have touched. Each rivet carries a story of its wearer – the adventures embarked upon, the memories created, and the journeys taken. Together, they form a mosaic of experiences, stitching together a tale of resilience, durability, and the enduring spirit of denim. Through this I aim to celebrate the legacy of these jeans and the lives they've lived, honoring their journey while giving them a new lease on life through my garment.
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DESIGN | CONCEPT | WEBSITE
BY
Rachael Zammer
rachael_zammer@fitnyc.edu
FIT AAS SPRING 2024 EXHIBITION